It is my truth that there is no better feeling than finding your dream pair of boots in a five-dollar bin, and no worse feeling than Shein after one wash. 

At its best, clothing speaks to individuality and personal taste; at its worst, it is overconsumption, pollution, exploitation and just plain boring. 

Threadlocked Exclusivity 

Since its inception, fashion was designed to be exclusive. Access and prices ensure that pieces speak to an in-group and paint a picture of individuality. Historically, price informs luxury, and limited quantities from designers generate rarity to synthesize consumer demand: think of Hermes’ Birkin bags, which require a waitlist and credit check. 

On the high end, fashion houses have the innate prerogative to maintain an elevated and aspirational image, suggesting their product will grant access to a certain lifestyle or status. They want loyal customers to be distinguishable from the masses, especially distinguishable from other fashion houses. Brands like Chanel have a historic reputation on their side, where they are able to leverage a longstanding image of luxury and exclusivity to justify prices in the tens of thousands. 

More modern brands like Acne Studios similarly seek to provide exclusivity through innovation and unique designs with small-scale inventory. Prices are steep with limited supply; resale prices are expected to double the retail amount. Once again, the ethos of exclusivity in design and pricing is in practice, but rather than on runways and red carpets, $1000 jeans are being marketed as elevated casual fashion for the average consumer. But whatever the occasion, fashion should be able to set you apart without being inaccessible in both price and quantity. 

Mall-ed to Death 

For the average consumer, your favourite brands at the mall likely deliver either affordability, quality or uniqueness. We tend to rationalize price by assuming quality: think Aritzia or Lululemon. Vice versa, we tend to rationalize poor quality by assuming that “you get what you pay for”: think Forever 21 or Ardene. 

Often, once that loyalty and trusted consumer base is locked in, brands leverage these factors and betray the values that consumer trust was built upon. A Statista survey in 2022 showed 70% of Canadian consumers were willing to pay more in support of products or services from companies and brands they trusted. Knowing they can rely on trust, a brand known for quality and high price points will begin to sacrifice quality, while maintaining or even increasing their prices. Similarly, a brand known for accessible prices will begin to slowly raise prices while maintaining or even worsening quality. According to Statista, 56% of Canadian consumers credit a decrease in the quality of their products or services as the main reason they stopped buying from a specific brand. There rests an inaccurate assumption from brands that consumers are not evaluating where their money is going, and oblivious to the rug being pulled out from under them. Not a cool girl move. 

Another trend: everything looks the same. Brand distinction almost no longer exists, especially not among outlet stores for the average consumer. Many major brands have sacrificed customer loyalty to instead hop on the same trends and styles circulating on Pinterest and TikTok, in an attempt to anticipate broader consumer demand. Consumers can no longer expect unique brand identity or innovation from the same brands anymore. 

Abercrombie & Fitch had a distinct preppy, Americana vision in the 2000s. This meant that as a consumer, you knew which outlet in the mall would be able to get you the specific look you wanted. This distinct and unique brand identity also paved the way for fashion trends, allowing the brand itself to be the trend setter. In contrast, Abercrombie & Fitch today is indistinguishable from Oak + Fort or Artizia; multiple brands are delivering the same product with minute variation, usually by stealing the designs from smaller designers and undercutting their price points. Not a cool girl move!

Ultra Fast Fashion 

More than ever, we as consumers are in high demand for affordable, accessible fashion that is caught up with the ever-changing tide of microtrends. Fashion has been a popularized form of self-expression for the average consumer over the last five years, where an interest and appreciation for fashion has become more mainstream. Increased consumption of fast fashion is likely a symptom of craving accessibility; there is a buzzing desire for a quick closet flip at an affordable price. 

Uncoincidentally, Shein, Temu, Fashionova and Value Village have become some of the biggest beneficiaries of this uptick. Clothing “hauls” cost $40 for the entire cart and are shipped across the world to end up on your doorstep in an unmarked bag: wrinkled and reeking of rubber. Fast fashion comes to your door in no time, and is on its way out of your rotation just as fast. Cheap materials and stolen designs lead to see-through leggings and a maximum of three wears. 

It’s ironic that we have turned to unethical consumption to prove our individuality. Aside from the environmental impact of this direct-to-consumer business model, it’s a boring route to self-discovery.  

Value Pillage 

Buying second-hand is not new—I have childhood memories of second-hand winter jackets and embroidered jeans, back when it was downright shameful to be wearing hand-me-downs. As thrifting shed its stigma, less consumers thrifted out of necessity and more consumers went thrifting with a ten dollar matcha in hand. 

Value Village caught on. While their inventory remains donation-based, their prices climbed alongside consumer demand. I remember graphic tees for two dollars; now you’ll be hard-pressed to find good quality items under $10. Instead, expect a $30 jacket, only to flip it over and read a Shein or Forever 21 tag—higher than the original item ever sold for. Mark-ups are getting out of hand while quality worsens. It is clear that Value Village is no longer delivering any “value”. With its prices surpassing most local second-hand stores, it has failed in its lane of affordability and access for its customers who relied on it. Not a cool girl move. 

Obviously, it’s just not worth it anymore to put our money towards exploitative business practices that deliver poor quality and unreasonable prices. Rather, put your money toward consignment and vintage stores, with quality controlled pre-loved pieces that you can continue loving for a long time. Being mindful of consumption will lead you to understanding your taste, what you like or dislike. The easy road to your dream closet is also usually the most boring, so revel in the struggle to find the perfect pair of jeans or the perfect leather jacket and hold out. 

As per my word, I will not gatekeep: below are some of my holy grail local second-hand stores, in no particular order, that you’ll hopefully consider as your first stop! You’ll see that your personal style and taste emerges during this hunt for your dream closet, in the face of desperation and dusty clothing racks. 

1. Plato’s Closet – 331A 105 Street East, Saskatoon, SK

My best find: $80 North Face puffer 

2. Underground Trends – 2325 Preston Ave, Saskatoon SK S7J 2G2

My best find: $15 Banana Republic slip dress 

3. Salvation Army – 339 Avenue C South, Saskatoon SK S7M 1N5

My best find: $8 Cargo satchel bag 

4. Better Off Duds – 510A 33rd St W, Saskatoon SK S7L 0V8 

My best find: $55 Leather moto boots

5. Warman Thrift Shop – 115 Klassen St, Warman SK S0K 4S0

My best find: $10 Fitted leather jacket 

6. Replacing You – Unit #14, 115B 3rd Ave S (in the Drinkle Mall)

My best find: $20 Handcrafted leather shoulder bag 

7. Village Green MCC Thrift – 60 33rd St E, Saskatoon SK S7K 0R9

My best find: $7 Knitted polo sweater 

8. Opportunity YXE – 4 – 511 1 St Ave N, Saskatoon SK S7K 1X5

My best find: $5 True Religion hooded zip up 

9. ARMCYE Studios – 157 2nd Ave N #1, Saskatoon, SK S7K 2A9

My best find: $40 Chiffon maxi skirt